Serenata Wines Blog

Well, the title just about sums it up – some wines just capture the British summer at its best: the crisp, zing of quality Chablis care of the Chevallier brothers; a touch of delicate richness from the maestro of the Mâconnais, Marcel Couturier, or why not travel south to Spain for our new great value, fresh and fragrant Rueda white from Bodegas Garcia Revalo, and the irresistible new crisp and ripe Rioja Blanco bottling from Bodegas Muga. Better still, why not try a bit of everything – we’ve got summer freshly bottled for you!

Domaine Chevallier, Chablis
Domaine Chevallier is all about proper, down-to-earth, small-scale winemaking on some steeper 11 hectares around the village of Montallery, which nestles in the Bois de Milly west of Chablis. All brothers Jean-Louis and Claude’s wines are domaine-bottled and get regular mentions in the Guide Hachette thanks to a willingness to let the soil and the Chardonnay grape work their magic unhindered. We heartily recommend the Chevallier Chablis as our ‘house’ range, as they offer typicity, character and excellent value for money for this level of quality.
The 2008 vintage has produced some wonderful Chardonnay wines across Burgundy, and Chablis is no exception. No white has quite the palate-cleansing, minerally freshness of top-class white from these parts, and the new vintage has a lovely combination of the steely minerality of 2007 combined with a more accessible richness that makes these wines a joy to try already, though they will also improve.

2008 Petit Chablis
Petit Chablis is normally slightly lighter in style than Chablis but this is a touch broader than one might expect, with high quality fruit making for a minerally yet accessible style. Classic stony Chablis flavours with crisp Granny Smith apple fruit. Delicious with or without food.
2008 Chablis ‘Cuvée Prestige’
A blend of the brothers’ finest village old vine parcels, and a total steal – Premier Cru in all but name. A short period in oak adds depth, but never covers the Chablis poise. I was always told that minerals can’t be smelt, but this has a lovely aroma of wet pebbles  combined with fresh green apple and conference pear. Lovely poise on the palate; raciness, with good rich apple crumble fruit beneath, a creamy note on the long, minerally finish. Clean, crisp and already irresistible.
2008 Chablis Premier Cru ‘Montmains’
The rather special Premier Cru is given a little time in a combination of new and old oak just to allow the extra layers and complexity to develop - seriously good Montmains! This is one of my favourite Premier Cru vineyards, with layers of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay always giving lovely, flinty, what I would call’ typical’ Chablis. The palate is beautifully precise; crisp Williams pear and Granny smith apple, chalky notes, very pure, a hint of vanilla pod on the long finish – a touch richer than the Prestige, perhaps. Top draw Chablis.

Domaine Marcel Couturier, Mâconnais
This is one of the hottest names in Mâconnais.  I’ve been watching Marcel’s meteoric progress with a great deal of interest since first coming across his 2005 vintage and he has all the attributes needed to become one of this region’s greatest producers. He has very good vineyard sites (although he still sells 80% of his production to the co-op, he has sound reasoning behind this at it allows him to build up his domaine slowly whilst ensuring good cash flow); a good percentage of old vines; a lot of passion, ability, a very inquisitive mind and, best of all, a willingness to accept and learn from his errors (such as picking a little late in ‘06). After a tasting earlier this year of his 2007s, ‘08s and ‘09s in one sitting, I have to say I was just blown away by the quality of this man’s wines - there are a lot of producers in the Côte de Beaune that should take a look at what Marcel is doing.  Production is tiny, however - I’ve seen bigger caves in Legoland - but that’s not the point; the point is feeling the quality not the width.
What makes Marcel’s wine so good?  Simply put it is the purity of the fruit, the clean minerality and acidity, and the depth of flavour;   There are some good Mâconnais wines out there (and too many that aren’t…) but I’m going to back Marcel to the hilt because I think his wines are just brilliant and great value, and he’s one of the good guys.

2008 Mâcon-Loché ‘Les Longues Terres’
70 year-old vines in here, mixture of 2 and 4 year old oak and some unoaked wine kept on its lees in tank.   Fresh, fragrant nose, stone fruits, touch floral.  Minerally and creamy texture, perfect harmony – very good acidity and long, clean finish.  This is, in theory, a Mâconnais-Villages, but it punches well above its weight - just a fabulous wine to enjoy now and over the next two or three years. 
2007 Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Aux Scelles’
Marcel has a little of 07 Pouilly left, which amazed me, so I reserved some on the spot - a lieu-dit of schist on rock (no clay subsoil).  This is one of the finest Pouilly-Fuissés I remember tasting; the purity and depth just bowled me over:  Hints of orchard fruits, citrus minerality on the nose.  Lovely structure to it, clever use of older barrels – creamy, minerally, intense - this is very classy.  The finish is lovely, balanced, persistent and clean.   Bravo Marcel!

Bodegas Garcia Revalo, Rueda
I like Valladolid, it has a good atmosphere and some terrific bars and restaurants; the fish is usually first class but I do have a weakness for the local speciality of lechazo (suckling lamb) washed down by any of the local wines.  Another advantage Valladolid has is that its local wines can be from Ribera del Duero, but these are becoming more and more expensive so you have the choice of turning either to Cigales for some decent reds, or Rueda, for some cracking, fresh white wines for value.
Rueda hasn’t exactly exploded on to the scene but the improvement and level of investment since the mid 90s has been growing steadily and is gaining pace with wineries, such as Garcia Revalo. Founded in 1990, Pedro Garcia is making some wonderfully fresh and fragrant summer whites from the Verdejo and Viura grown on their 40 hectares.

2009 Tres Olmos
This wine is matured on its lees giving the wine extra depth of flavour and structure. Pear and orchard fruit more than tropical – lovely texture in the mouth, quite complex flavours including ripe citrus, anis.  The finish is balanced and long – impressive wine for the price and makes a nice alternative to the Sauvignons of this world.  Try this wine with strong flavoured fish, such as tuna or salmon or even mild and very fine soft cheeses.

Bodegas Muga, Rioja
Bodegas Muga has been a favourite Rioja house of ours for many years. They are lovely people who make great wines across the board, neither overly entrenched in tradition nor so smitten with modernism that the very things that make Rioja such a unique wine are lost in the search for a more international style. For summer sipping it’s hard to beat the freshness, purity and balanced richness of their white bottling.

2009 Rioja Blanco
A blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia. Dry and clean with peach and citrus notes and hints of oak. For anyone with bad memories of oaky, over-oxidised white Rioja I prescribe at least a glass of the excellent Muga Blanco. A delightful combination of ripe citrus (lemon, lime) and herbal notes (thyme, tarragon), with a gentle vanilla finish. Fabulous seafood wine.

A very Bank-Holiday-like combination of sunshine and showers put pay to many a barbecue, but gave me the perfect excuse to sample the brand new 2007 Estate Chardonnay from our friends at Kumeu River in Auckland. Whilst Kiwi Sauvignon can split white drinkers down the middle, I really cannot think of more universally respected, high-quality Chardonnay producer in these parts – beautiful New World fruit combined with elegant minerality, with good ageing potential as well – and the new release is a stunner. Pick up a case or two now for when the sun returns!

2007 Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu River
‘The 2007 Estate Chardonnay has a wonderful nose that has you instantly hooked, capturing the essence of a Meursault with hints of roasted almonds and smoke. The palate is very well balanced, very clean on the entry but building nicely to a weighty, honeyed middle with touches of almond, hazelnut, lemon and spice. With great persistency on the finish, this Chardonnay offers a Michael Brajkovich MW produced a brilliant array of 2007s. The cooler growing season meant that they harvested one week earlier than 2006 with lower yields and sugar levels, high acidity levels but with greater expression of mineralilty. If you have never tried these wines, then it is time you see for yourself what New Zealand is capable of. All his Chardonnays can be drunk immediately but do resist temptation and save some bottles to drink over 5-6 years (or more) as they can age beautifully. Just don’t ask Michael if he could bottle your allocation under cork! Drink 2009-2014’91pts - The Wine Advocate # 184 (Sep 2009)

‘... quite toasty and brioche-like on the palate but enlivened but a fine citrus freshness and some ripe melon flavour. Just a hint of charry reduction, which is very attractive and restrained. Beautifully balanced and elegant and long with lovely purity of citrus fruit.’
17.5 / 20 – Jancis Robinson.com, Sept. 2009

‘Bright, tangy and elegant, this vibrant wine has grapefruit and pineapple flavors at the fore, picking up apple and spice as the finish lingers effortlessly. Drink now through 2017.’
**Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of 2009**
92pts – Wine Spectator.com, Nov 2009
 

This recent spell of balmy weather has reminded us all that the words ‘summer’ and ‘England ‘ need not be mutually exclusive, and also of the importance of keeping reserves of some fine rosé to hand... 

Rocca di Montegrossi, Monti in Chianti
‘Once again proprietor Marco Ricasoli has fashioned one of the most outstanding set of wines in Chianti Classico’
2009 Rosato Toscano - 92% Sangiovese, 8% Ciliegiolo
Our new favourite rosé!  Marco’s deep respect for the Sangiovese grape also shines through in this fantastic new rosé release - the Wine Advocate described the ’08 as ‘simply beautiful’ and this is better still. Fermentation is in stainless steel for four months using natural yeasts, producing a very attractive red-cherried glass. Fresh raspberry and blossom mingle on the nose; lovely clarity, not at all confected, then a wonderfully crisp, juicy palate of sour cherry and wild strawberry, a very subtle hint of liquorice. This captures the essence of Chianti beautifully without Sangiovese’s savoury, smokier side – great on its own, but could handle pizza, pasta and grilled chicken a treat. There’s no rush on this wine either; seriously made stuff.  We only got one bite at this particular cherry so I suggest that you buy enough now to last the summer; just delicious!

Domaine des Clairneaux, Sancerre
Jean-Marie Berthier created this domaine from scratch in 1980 in the north of the appellation. His  8 or so hectares are fifty:fifty chalky-clay and flint, and are exposed to long hours of sunlight so his wines have a lovely combination of ripe fruit flavours as well as expressing the natural flintiness of Sancerre.
2009 Sancerre Rosé, Domaine des Clairneaux - 100% Pinot Noir
Nothing says ‘summer’s on it’s way’ than the arrival of the new rosé vintage from Jean-Marie Berthier – a more beautiful, salmon pink glass of wine you are never likely to see. I have yet to speak to anyone who doesn’t love his wonderful crisp, minerally-yet-fruit-packed Sancerre Blanc, and all the care and attention this former geologist puts into site selection shines through in his 100% Pinot Noir rosé as well, grown on just 2 hectares in the north of the appellation. Producers in these parts are calling ’09 a vintage to remember, and this is certainly a beautiful glass of wine - a delicate, floral nose with fragrant redcurrant and fresh raspberry fruit, a touch of minerality on the fresh finish. First class – lovely with fish dishes.