Cantina Terlano in Alto-Adige
Wine Spectator's James Suckling writes, 'To say that an Italian cooperative winery produces some of the best white wines in its region, if not the whole of the country, may raise an eyebrow or two. But having recently blind-tasted the white wines of Cantina Terlano, from the Alto Adige region in Italy's northeast, I have no doubt that this is the case.'
This high quality co-operative was founded back in 1893, and now numbers over a hundred contributing producers, all farming tiny plots on terraces cut into the slopes of Mount Schoggel (near Bolzano) at altitudes of up to 1000 metres. The south-facing slopes, strewn with crystals and volcanic rock give rise to wines of wonderful elegance, complexity and minerality, and chief winemaker Rudi Kofler is an absolute master in maximising varietal character in every wine. Elegant and stylish on release, the Cantina Terlano whites also have an enviable record for cellar ageing; very unusual for Italian aromatic varieties.
Plans have just been approved to expand the winery in 2009, and continued excellence has been rewarded by an invitation to join wine Spectator magazine's Grand Tour - a tasting event celebrating the world's finest 200 wineries! The new 2007 arrivals balance concentration and ripeness with a beautiful elegance, and snap up any 2006s whilst you can, like the legendary Sauvignon Quarz.
Join us in raising a glass or two to Köfler & Co. with some of Italy's most stylish white wines.
2007 Terlaner Classico
Fascinating house blend of 60% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Sounds unusual, but works brilliantly as an aromatic, tropical fruit-scented blend. Real complexity, and a long, dry finish. A intriguing dry white; I find something new in every glass - great with or without food.
2007 Pinot Bianco Classico
Previous winner of the Gambero Rosso Oscar Nazionale for the Best-Value white wine in the whole of Italy! A beautiful example of what this variety can achieve. Apple and pear fruit, acacia aromas, with a vibrant freshness and minerality. Very classy stuff, and has that burgundian combination of richness and elegance; such a good match for sole, lobster and delicate seafood flavours.
2007 pinot grigio Classico
The wine that restored my faith in a much-maligned grape! How? Steep, mineral-rich vineyards and lowyields; resulting in depth and complexity so often missing. Apple and melon flavours with a touch of spice, then the trademark clean, crisp finish. Fresh, lively - a great antipasto wine, and a wonderful match for freshwater fish simply prepared (trout, salmon).
2007 Sauvignon Winkl
The 06 was one of my favourite dry whites of last year, and the 2007 runs it very close at this stage. A single-vineyard selection, partly vinified in barrique to extract the most from the Sauvignon Blanc grape; the finesse of fine Pouilly-Fume with Marlborough-like fruit intensity. Intensely fruity (apple, peach), with real depth and richness, balanced by a refreshing acidity. Lovely stuff!
Aromas of lychee fruit and orange follow through to a full body, with lots of fruit and a long finish. Balanced and delicious. All there. Drink now.
90pts - Wine Spectator.com, 2008
2006 Sauvignon Quarz
One of the finest versions of the Sauvignon Blanc grape you will ever taste, from anywhere. The Sauvignon Quarz comes from a sandy, single vineyard at 300-350m, whose beautiful exposure and easy-warming soil produces fabulous white grapes. Fermentation is partly in steel, partly in large wooden tonneaux, followed by ageing on lees for 8 months. This gives stunning depth, complexity, and the ability to age for a decade and more in top vintages.
This is very serious for a Sauvignon, with rich yet focused pineapple, mango and lemon character, with just a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, with bright acidity and a long, long finish. Powerful, yet flavorful. Fantastic white. One of the great Sauvignons of the world. Drink now.
94pts - Wine Spectator.com, May 2008

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