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Italian Gems

Fattoria Galardi-Campania

2005 Terra di Lavoro
In my humble opinion Riccardo Cotterella is at his best when working with local grape varieties, rather than with better known international favourites (which can appear a little formulaic) - he manages to produce rich and appealing wines which lose nothing of their origins and, if anything, seem to gain even more of a sense of place. BP

Galardi is another property that has come along in recent years with a series of stunning wines. Under the guidance of oenologist Riccardo Cotarella, the estate's Terra di Lavoro (80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso) has quickly established itself as one of Italy's top cult wines, and with good reason, as it is consistently outstanding and often profound. At its best Terra di Lavoro offers extraordinary expression of these two ancient varieties and the volcanic soils on which they are grown

The 2005 Terra di Lavoro is a beauty. This massively structured, imposing blend of 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso bursts from the glass with a compelling array of smoke, ash, graphite, underbrush and black cherries. Layered, sweet and powerful, it reveals notable depth as well as persistence. While it is not profound as is the 2004, it will likely come around sooner. That is of course in relative terms given that Terra di Lavoro has proven to be a very slow-maturing wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025'. Review by Antonio Galloni wine Advocate # 175 (Feb 2008) Rating: 93 Drink 2012 - 2025

Agricola Querciabella - Tuscany

Two new releases from this outstanding estate - impressive doesn't seem quite adequate enough a word! Their wines, always meticulously made, have an extra vitality and dimension to many of those of their peers and much of this must be put down to their biodynamic principals.

Founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, an avid collector of French wines Agricola Querciabella is now managed and owned by Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni. Run entirely on biodynamic principles the south-east and south-west facing vineyards are located on the hilltop of Ruffoli in Greve (Chianti), with very low yields and careful finishing in top-quality barriques. The track record here is phenomenal; as Nicolas Belfrage puts it Querciabella has arrived at the point where one expects at least near perfection from every bottle that comes from the line.

Querciabella have just released 2005 Batar - rightly lauded as one of Italy's greatest whites of all - and a new vintage of their latest addition, the IGT Maremma red, 2006 Mongrana, every bit the equal of Querciabella's first-rate chiantis and quite brilliant value.

2006 Mongrana IGT Maremma Toscana
(50% Sangiovese, 25% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot)
This is only the second release of Mongrana (named after Ariostos epic poem of 1516 called Orlando Furioso apparently) and it's already mightily impressive. In wine terms, Maremma is often where Chianti meets Bordeaux - Super Tuscany - and Querciabella's new vineyard, on the edge of the Uccellina National Park, benefits from the sheltered location combined with cooling coastal breezes. A combination of savoury Sangiovese fruit, rich and fleshy Merlot and Cabernet backbone makes for a delicious red. Hand harvested, finished for three months in barrique. A very stylish Super-Tuscan without the price tag. Still youthful and full of the quality of the vintage - highly recommended.

This supple, spicy biodynamic beauty is one of the best Italian wines I've had in ages. Made from a blend of 50% sangiovese with 25% each of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, it is just the job with pasta and meatballs.Top 50 Summer Wines' - Johnny Ray, the Daily Telegraph, June 2008

2005 Batar IGT Toscana
(65% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Blanc)
Described by the Wine Advocate as consistently one of Italy's finest whites, Batar takes a fine wine burgundy and adds a touch of Tuscan finesse - the name is Querciabella's nod to its cousins on the Côte d'Or. The vineyards have been farmed organically right back to 1988 (bio-dynamically from 2000), with yields as astonishingly low as 25hl/ha, and there is a class, purity and concentration that marks this out as one of Europe's great white wines. The varieties are fermented separately, with the final blend only selected after a year's barrique ageing. The blended wine then rests for six months prior to release. The 2005 release has a real finesse and elegance, and will drink now or develop for another ten years. First class.

The estate's barrel-aged 2005 Batar (50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Blanc) is consistently one of Italy's finest whites. The 2005 presents attractive suggestions of jasmine, peaches and sweet tropical fruit on a medium-bodied frame buttressed by a lively note of minerality. While the 2005 is not one of the more opulent Batars, it is nonetheless a very finessed wine that is sure to find many admirers. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.
90pts - The Wine Advocate # 171, Jun 2007

Fresh apple, flower and light toffee aromas follow through to a full body, with a round texture and a long, rich finish. There's loads of fruit and character, yet this is refined. Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. Drink now.
90pts - Wine Spectator.com, Oct 31, 2007

06/11/2008   Cabernet Sauvignon  |  Chardonnay  |  Italian wines  |  Merlot  |  Tuscany wines Permalink |  Comments (0)

 

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